Deep in the remote, mountainous region of Western Hunan Province lives one of the largest minority groups in China. They are called "Tujia," which literally means the "Soil Family."

The Tujia people are good at brocade weaving, an art that is over 1,500 years old.It uses yarn as warp and silk as weft. Tujia brocade is made on an ancient waist loom, using the "interweaving the intermittent warp and incessant weft" Method. The patterns, favoring landscapes, trees, flowers, and animals, reflect their paying homage to nature, and their deep love for life.

Ⅰ. History

Tujia is an ethnic group that has been traditionally skilled at embroidery and textiles. Early in the Qin-Han period (221 BC-220 AD), Tujia ancestors were able to weave an exquisite cloth, the 'Zong cloth', which is a thin blue cloth, like damask silk. It was later called 'Xitong cloth' during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), which was described in historical documents as a cloth made from threads of five colors, and looks bright and beautiful. It can be used for quilts, dresses or towels. After the Song Dynasty (960-1279), the textile technology of Tujia was further developed. 'Xilankapu', a kind of brocade woven with cotton and silk and with luxurious design and exquisite craftmanship, gradually gained great prestige worldwide.

Ⅱ. Main Varieties

The brocade has two main varieties: Xilankapu (Tujia language) and striped floral cloth.

1. Xilankapu

Xilankapu, also known as 'Knitting Floral Bedclothes,' is a Tujia masterpiece. Woven on a simple, ancient wooden waist loom via 12 procedures, this kind of brocade, thick and durable, simple but gorgeous, is reputed to be one of the three most famous brocades in southwestern China.

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